Men's Fitness



Fabric Softening - Technical Fabrics Take On The Sporting Challenge
By Marilyn DeMartini for Men's Fitness - May, 1999

Remember when it used to be easy to select athletic clothing? T-shirts and sweats fit the protocol for any sport or athletic activity and you had your choice of cotton for hot weather, a nylon "windbreaker" for cooler temperatures, wool, and maybe a layer of thermal underwear for cold weather. Getting dressed was a slam dunk.

Well, technology changes everything--even clothing. Companies like Dupont, 3M and a host of fabric mills, have provided a plethora of technical fabrics and styles for every sport, with hang tags as complex as a football playbook. Shopping for the right athletic wear suddenly ranks with the difficulties of analyzing draft picks! While the broad choices and new jargon may make the selection process more difficult, take heart--technical fabrics have greatly improved the comfort level of the sporting life! "Running suits" no longer "swish" like shuffling through a pile of leaves because nylons have become softer and more "cotton-y." Polyester is no longer synonymous with lounge lizard leisure suits, but has been reinvented as "microfiber," a supple and wrinkle-resistant fabric, used in most sportswear lines. Those fabrics that used to be hard as the frozen tundra of Lambo Field have been "brushed" to give a softer "hand" and drape that makes them feel as good as they look. Gym shorts now have new versatility, so they can go from the track, to lunch, or to the next playground!

What are "Technical" fabrics? They are the new cyber fibers, updating the traditional natural fibers of cotton, linen, wool, silk and rubber. While beautiful and useful for casual fashion, the naturals just don't make the cut when it comes to the demands of sport and active leisure. Synthetic fibers, the building blocks of fabrics, are produced mainly from petroleum-based products, and through the wonders of molecules, polymers and technology, performance and comfort qualities are conveyed to fabrics.

There are four main reasons that technical fabrics were created--insulation, keeping body heat in, and cold out; moisture management, moving excess water vapor away from the skin and to the surface to evaporate; water and wind resistance, shielding against the elements; and stretch, providing support and room for movement.

After spending the winter under layers of insulated jackets, gloves and hats, let's move on to the lighter and more versatile spring offerings, designed to keep you cool, dry and comfortable!

Moisture Management
Since sweat is the body's main thermostat regulator, "breathable" technical fabrics assist the body in transporting moisture off the skin, to the surface where it can evaporate. Say so long to that clammy, sticky feeling after a good workout!

Synethic fibers are either absorbent and hydrophilic (water loving), pulling moisture in, or adsorbent and hydrophobic (water hating), "wicking" moisture over and around them. Since they are light-weight and porous, these fabrics move moisture and dry quickly, unlike cotton T-shirts and shorts, which after running, playing tennis or biking, will absorb every drop of sweat, literally sticking to your ribs! Many shorts and swim trunks are lined with mesh or crepe-like briefs that further enhance the breathability. They might cost a few dollars more, but if your plans include stopping for errands or lunch after your run or game, you'll value the investment, from the seat of your pants!

Moisture Management Fabrics include: CoolMax, 100% polyester microfiber, Capilene, Hydromove, Polartech Micro, Supplex, Taslan nylon, or Tencel. Manufacturers also use proprietary names, such as Nike Dri F.I.T., Pearl Izumi's Ultrasensor, Sugoi's Microlite, or Columbia's Omni-Dry.

Look for: Light-weight, soft, silky-feeling fabrics, many with an open weave or a smooth, slippery surface.

(Photo items: Nike, InSport, Pearl Izumi, Columbia, Sugoi, Starter.)

Water and Windproof or Resistant
Fighting the elements in old nylon or rubber-coated outerwear never really kept you dry--you just got soaked from sweat instead of rain! Laminated fabrics can now breathe, through millions of minute pores, too small to let rain drops in, but big enough to let perspiration water vapor out. Some fabrics are bonded with hydrophobic membranes, leaving the inside soft and insulating against the skin, while the coated outer layer protects against the weather. Some sprayed-on water-resistant finishes can wash off, so many companies are now using processes that incorporate the water-resistant qualities into, rather onto the fabric.

Wind resistance is built on the same concept, and though some nylon or microfiber vests or jackets may be labeled as "wind shirts," they will perform best if they are also treated for water repellence. To judge if a garment is "waterproof," rather than resistant, examine the inside construction. Waterproof clothing has seams that are taped and sealed, sometimes just at critical shoulder seams, but top-quality, truly waterproof gear, for boating, watersports or golf, should have visibly heat sealed seams throughout.

And if you're into watersports, you probably won't get off the beach or dock without neoprene. Surfers, divers, jet skiers, kayakers and rafters all depend on "closed cell" foam rubber to keep warm, dry and insulated. "Wet suits" use various weights of Neoprene for different water temperatures and Neoprene-based adhesives to keep them watertight. Socks and "booties" now add foot protection as well.

Olefins, lighter weight hydrophobic fabrics have come out of the water sports arena and are now used in stretch base layer garments, like bike tights, Spinning gear and stretch garments that wick and dry almost instantly.

Water/Wind Resistant Fabrics include: Gore-Tex, (the Grand Daddy of waterproofing) and lighter-weight Activent, Dryloft, (a bonding used on shell fabrics of parkas and sleeping bags), Gelanots, Durapel, Tactel, Helly-Hanson's Stormbreaker, Nike Clima F.I.T. , Patagonia H2No Plus, or Teflon (yes, the same coating that works on frying pans works on your clothes) may be seen on hang tags for everything from backpacks to sailing gear. Neoprene, Polypropelene Polyolefin or Alpha Olefin, a must for watersports.

Look for smooth, tightly woven fabrics, some with a soft hand or feel. Some surfaces may be shiny, while some are matte finish, depending on the type of fabric.

(Photo items: Reebok rainsuit, wind vest, wind shirt, Brooks Jacket, Nike jacket, Starter Shirt, O'Neill wet suit.)

Stretch
Stretch fabrics are increasingly used for men's sportswear, not only for range of movement, but to prevent wrinkling and retain shape. Lycra, Dupont's trade name for the general category of spandex synthetic stretch fabrics, generally rules this category, and can be found in everything from socks to swim suits. Spandex provides better comfort and fit than rubber, which can weaken when exposed to skin or the elements. Spandex has also been proven to directly effect performance.

Dupont did a 5-year study at the Penn State Center for Sports Medicine to investigate the relationship between compression and muscle performance. The study found that when "Lycra Power" heavier compression/stretch pants were worn, muscle fatigue was lessened and muscle efficiency was increased, with an average of 12% improvement in performance. So keep in mind, it might not be "the shoes"--it might be "the shorts!"

Stretch Fabrics include: Lycra, Spandex, Comprexx, ESP.

Look for garments that stretch, then "recover" their shape, for better fit and movement.

(Photo items: InSport Lycra Power shorts, Sugoi socks)

A Mixed-Bag of Tech Fabrics for Many Uses ...
Shoes--especially boots, are the beneficiary of another group of technical fabrics with abrasion and tear-resistant fibers. Kevlar, a material used in bullet-proof vests has even been used in a fabric called Keprotec, in high-wear spots on boots and pants made for hiking, trekking, motorcycling, or in any tough sport. Durable synthetic leathers like Amara and Pittard's have also been developed for gloves that are quick-drying and stay supple and soft. "Rip-stop" nylon is used for a variety of garments and tote bags, since it is lightweight, colorfast and has a grid-like surface which resists tears and ripping.

(Photo Items: Pearl Izumi Gloves, Ogio backpack.)

Antimicrobial fabrics like Microstop, have been developed to retard growth of bacteria or fungus that can cause odor, skin irritation, mildew or fabric degradation. (You'll really appreciate that benefit if you've ever thrown a sweaty pair of shorts or socks in the bottom of your gym bag and forgotten about them for a while!) Antimicrobials are ideal for bike tights, pant liners, socks and other garments that may be subjected to long hours of sweating.

And for those Eco-conscious athletes that eschew the use of petroleum based fibers, there is Fortrel Ecospun, mostly used in fleece, made completely from recycled plastic bottles and containers. Tencel, a silky, breathable fabric, is also made in a non-toxic manner, from 100% natural cellulose wood pulp.

Even sun protection is addressed by technical fabrics treated with sunscreen, since untreated fabrics surprisingly provide extremely low UV ray blockage. Reebok uses a lightweight, loop knit that mixes Tactel fibers on the inside for wicking and a sunscreen treated cotton on the outside for the sun protection equivalent of SPF 30.

Reflective technology has become an important safety factor, as we squeeze running into early AM or late PM hours. Reflective tapes on running garments and shoes were commonplace, then technology turned on the lights, making woven fabrics light up with millions of tiny satellite dishes of reflection, providing 360 degrees of visibility. The fabric looks "normal" during daylight hours, but literally glows in the dark when under street or headlights.

(Photo items: Sugoi antimicrobial socks, Jagged Edge Ecospun vest, Reebok SPF Polo shirt InSport reflective vest and hat.)

So gear up, and get out--performance now applies to the fabric as well as the athlete. Put technology on your team and work up a good sweat--comfortably!



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