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Dolce & Gabbana Breezes into Bal Harbour by Marilyn DeMartini - Women's Wear Daily April 8, 1999 Bal Harbour, Florida - Just as the steaming South Florida sun gave way to the rising full moon, revelers came out to Bal Harbour to celebrate the opening of Dolce & Gabbana's new flagship store. The full-front glass window gave an open view of the angular space, displayed minimally with fresh oranges, limes and two, freshly-cooked four-pound lobsters, framing a red-hot patent, high-heeled pump. The lobsters complimented a single strapless black cocktail dress, with a hand-painted crustacean, wrapping the shimmering fabric like a beauty contestant sash. Welcome to the tropics--this is not Madison Avenue--this is the freshly conceived Dolce & Gabbana, showcasing its couture line and breathing new life into Bal Harbour, North Miami's most upscale shopping address. Unlike the stark white, limestone, red velvet and chrome- fixtured New York store, the Bal Harbour store features neutral gray walls, thin black linear hanging fixtures, and black wood cabinetry. The charcoal-colored volcanic rock floor from Sicily, brings a Mediterranean touch to an open and minimalist environment that with natural and filtered halogen lighting, showcases the clothing from every angle. Dolce & Gabbana's Bal Harbour store will house both men's and women's collections, fragrances, eyewear, knits, leathers, beachwear and accessories. Strategically placed between George Jensen jewelry from Denmark and Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana adds another European accent and a welcomed dash of energy to Bal Harbour's tropically landscaped first level corridor, lined with the likes of Gucci, Escada, Lacosta, St. John, Cartier and Chanel. "Bal Harbour has every designer," comments Dolce & Gabbana fashion director, Justo Artigas, "You'd better have something new and different!" And though the party guests' attire made it look like the crystal blue Atlantic had become the Black Sea, the floor was peppered with bursts of color, beads and metallics, that appropriately brought Dolce & Gabbana's interpretation of resort to Miami. Dolce & Gabbana president Eric Silverman, who breezed in off his fishing boat in black rolled-up jeans and boots, looking tanned and healthily wind-blown, commented, "I'm from here, and everyone knows there's only one Bal Harbour." Mentioning the Vancouver and Houston franchises, he added, "It was this location that made us decide to open company stores. We have many South Florida customers, and many in South America, so Miami was a natural preference for the designers." Silverman who keeps a home on Key Biscayne, will no doubt be making frequent trips, "fishing" for information on his new 1,550 s.f. prototype store. Los Angeles is planned to open within the year, using the same interior design. Lea Green, owner of Legita, a Sao Paulo, Brazil boutique, exemplified the dual-city customer. "I shop in New York, but live in Miami, so I am so excited to have them here! Though I sell Prada, Gucci and all the other designers in my store, Dolce & Gabbana are my favorites and now I can get their full selection here--department stores in Miami don't carry all the special items they have in New York," she added. Ingrid Cazares, mayoress of the South Beach social and fashion scene, promoter and partner in several of the hottest hot spots on the Beach, including Liquid and Barroom, concurred, "Now I don't have to run to New York to get something to wear to an opening. [This store] certainly makes my life easier!" Cazares added, "Miami is becoming a mini-New York and is catching on to what's happening in Milan and Europe, so I see Dolce & Gabbana coming here as another step in the right direction." Cazares breezed through the store opening and after-party at Barroom, in a sheer silk tulle duo from the Spring '99 line, a black short sleeved shirt, over a white, knee-length skirt, perfect for sun-filled days or balmy tropical nights. "The Spring collection is about proportions and fabric," said Artigas. "It was inspired by the drawings of Leonardo Da Vinci, that show how the body moves." Articulated knees on a technical climbing pant take-off, seamless tops, and sleeves with freedom of movement, emphasizes the theme, and lycra added to all fabrics provides comfort and fit. "Prints aren't new anymore, so we are hand-painting and using laquered silks, chiffon and georgette for a modern look--It's all about cut and fabrics," Artigas further commented. The polished fabrics, and even shoes, sparkled with holograms and metallics, while the hand-painted fabrics pictured tropically themed brilliant-colored fish and neutral bamboo. A line of sexy tiger stripes, a laquered satin Asian print and deep garnet red suit, punctuated the traditional black and white color scheme, while flesh-toned neutrals periodically made an appearance. Knits are clingy and body-hugging for women and light and sumptuous in silk and cotton for men. The men's line featured tropical weight suits, ranging from linen blends, light-weight wools and cotton/poly short sleeve combos, to patent leather sport coats and black and white cargo pants, with plenty of extra zips and pockets. Everything incorporates a touch of lycra for body, ease of movement and fit. "Men's wear has been performing even better than expected," said Artiga, "We anticipated our business would be 60-70% women, but we're finding it closer to 50/50. We are perfect for Miami," he enthused, " Dolce & Gabbana automatically likes sexy--moving, sheer, stretch fabrics, beading, short skirts, color, simple high heels, knits--never over-sized--always accentuating the woman's body--sexy all the time. The weather here inspires outdoor living, working out, massages, showing skin. We will do a lot of brights, prints, and beading here. This is not our business customer." Noting that price is not an issue at Bal Harbour, the store will carry more of the "special" pieces that the department stores have not carried. "They have educated the consumer," Artigas notes, "But a boutique can carry the one-of-a-kind pieces for a limited market. There are many things to do here and women can feel like a dream in our line." Looking like a dream was Athena, special squeeze of Victor Calderone, noted South Beach producer for Madonna and DJ for the Barroom post-opening party. The waif-of-a women, former dance student and now aspiring thespian, was draped in clinging nude Chantilly Lace, over a saucy gold lame bikini. Other Barroom bar-awlers favored the strapless laquered cocktail dresses, or the standard South Beach black on black body-conscious pants and tops. For the after-party, Artigas shed his lightweight casual suit for the white baggy cargo pant and black tank, layered over a red one, for a tropical color accent. He carried the theme of citrus fruit displays to the dance floor, where guests boogied on counter tops till dawn. Cazares took her entourage from the private seating floor space to the balcony for better viewing, while Nikki Taylor, Suzane Bartsch and Rita Schraeger, joined the grand opening party celebration. |
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