Desiderata, the classic poem by Max Ehrmann, which counsels, "Go placidly amid the noise and haste," was the inspiration for a new line of shoes, designed by John Higdon, a shoe industry veteran. As Senior VP, in charge of design and product development for the new parent company, California Sole, LLC, in Beverly Hills, Higdon and President Ben Gillman, have launched a line of women's shoes for the trend-conscious, ready-to-wear customer. Sales for the early Fall deliveries have exceeded expectations.

Desiderata, which translates to "Articles of Desire," was shown at the New York, Miami, Atlanta and Chicago regional shows, and has been bought by upscale specialty stores such as Dolly Duz, Marshall Rousseau, Shoes and Battaglia. "The look is very up-to-date, very fashion forward, and the prices are quite fair," said Barry Hanna, owner of World Class Footwear, which includes Battaglia and Balizza, Battaglia Outdoors and the Shoe Zone, "They are very much in today's world," he added.

Being in "today's world" also includes price consciousness, and Desiderata was created for the bridge customer. "The shoe is for a better taste level customer who can't afford high designer prices," explained Higdon, "Our customer is not label conscious--she wants the look, but she's an intelligent shopper." "We are not knocking-off Prada and selling shoes for $200 less--everyone is doing that, the brands are doing that," furthered Gillman, "No one is doing what we're doing. We're creating new styles and doing it with outstanding quality. If our [shoes] look different and fresher than the competition, then it becomes an emotional thing to buy us." And emotion seems to run high in this company, as Higdon discussed the "spirit" of the shoes he designs.

Higdon, who started in the retail shoe business 35 years ago as an art student, has combined his creativity with his love for shoes. He talks about the line like the shoes are his children--each created with its own personality--like the "child of the universe" noted in the Ehrmann poem. "I've been in the shoe business all my life! I fell in love with retail!" Higdon laughs, "It gets in your blood!" He worked his way through the business from retail, into manufacturing, with Nina, Delman and other shoe companies, then created the Allure line, which he says has changed drastically from the original concept he envisioned and has since been bought by another company. Desiderata--both the poem and shoes--fueled his creative energies to again develop a women's shoe line with spirit, that represents, "fashion in good taste at a good price point."

The company is breaking the stigma of Chinese production, by importing materials from Italy and Spain, and contracting with what Higdon calls, "one of the finest factories in China, close to Hong Kong." "Asia has come a long way in the industry. With the global economy, the world has changed. The finest names in the business like Donna Karan and Calvin Klein manufacture there now--the stigma is fading into the past," he says, "We all know the Italians are the best craftsmen, but their prices are outrageously high. If everyone can't afford those prices, we'll make better shoes at good prices. If the product is made well, it doesn't matter [where it is made]," he adds. The company reports that all the soles, linings and uppers are fine imported leathers, including kid skin from Spain; there are no synthetics used, so the rich materials, image and look of the shoes belie the lower-cost assembly and its perceived lower value.

The majority of the wholesale price points are $22-32 with a new "jewels for the foot" group to be shown for late Fall and Holiday, at the upper end, with prices of $36-48. The low wholesale prices were planned to provide retail price points of $60-90. However, some retailers are planning for a larger mark-up. "We wanted to keep prices under $100," commented Gillman. "Then, when I saw some of the purchase orders that showed the retail prices, It made me feel good that retailers felt the shoes looked like $98-110! Most people can't believe they're from China--they are great quality. If they can stand on their own against shoes from Spain and Italy, we're happy," he added.

The first line of approximately 75 styles, featured a multi-colored faux snake skin, in a boot, sling back, pump and mule. This group, for August/September delivery, has basically sold out, reports Gillman, and he is planning for the Las Vegas show to debut new lines. The company will pare down to approximately 30 styles, including some dressy, but more casual styles, with both wedges and heels, and some with bottom interest, for November/December deliveries. After the Miami show, the company opened 40 new accounts in Florida alone. "In the Southeast, the open shoe season is strong the next few months," Gillman states, "Out west we had some good reaction--we have three of the better stores in Las Vegas. Chicago is little rougher because they don't buy open shoes until after the Vegas show. The Spring shoes did better than expected, and I would say most of the better shoe stores across the country are going to be carrying us," he notes.

As for competition, Gillman sees Desiderata as more of a designer name than a brand. "Our competition is Charles David and Bebe, more so than brands who are going for price. Our shoe looks like it is more expensive, and the taste level of the design is high," he comments. Private label will also be a part of the company's business.

The poem Desiderata beckons to, "Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans," which the new line, Desiderata, is now enabling California Sole to do-while keep their "soul" in tact. "We are penetrating the market as fast as we can, but the whole thing is to be a nice person," Higdon philosophizes, "It's a tough business, but it's not too hard to be nice."